Three months ago, I confided in a few of my closest friends something that was completely out of character: I wasn’t looking forward to our trip to Venice. It’s not that I didn’t want to escape the Helsinki winter or get a change of scenery, it’s just that I didn’t want to trade in for a crowded, smelly, expensive tourist trap.
Unfortunately, most of the people I complained to seemed to understand my concerns. They too had once navigated the throngs of tourists pouring out of Santa Lucia train station; they had felt the pain of a $6 latte; they had a friend, who had a sister, who once had the worst lasagna of her life in a restaurant by a canal. “Whatever you do, don’t go there,” my friend warned. She meant the restaurant and not Venice itself, but still. I didn’t like her tone.
But I am happy to report that I was wrong about a lot of things. Much to my surprise, I absolutely loved Venice right away. I cannot say enough good things about the food, the people, even the crowded tiny streets. It was all so charming. Now, as Johann and I are about, halfway through our stay here, I couldn’t be happier with his choice. My only regret is listening to what everyone else had to say about this city before really getting to know it myself.
With that in mind, I’m going to debunk the top six myths about Venice – and hopefully change a few minds along the way.
Myth #1: It’s crowded.
Well, actually there is some truth to that. Parts of Venice are kind of crowded. That’s to be expected – more than 65,000 visitors plow through every day and make their way to Piazza San Marco by way of the same footbridge. It’s madness!
But like most cities, the secret to enjoying Venice is checking the box on the main tourist attractions and then escaping elsewhere. Here are some of our my favorite, low(er)-key spots:
Fondamenta della Misericordia: We lived on this street for a few weeks when we first arrived and affectionately dubbed it Hipster Row. It’s basically one long strand of good restaurants, cool bars and chill cafes. In a city like Venice, this is as local as it gets. Our specific favorites: For wine/drinks, Vino Vero and Mezzopieno Bacaro. For coffee, Torrefazione Cannaregio. For snacks or a light lunch, sullaluna. For (fish!) dinner, Il Paradiso Perduto.
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi: Another street with loads of options for food and drinks is Via Giuseppe Garibaldi… and the bonus is that it’s just a 10-15 minute walk from San Marco. So once you’ve checked the piazza off your list, don’t fall for the €6 cappuccino at a touristy cafe. Instead, head to the promenade (towards Arsenale/Giardini) and grab something much cheaper, better and chiller. My favorite spots: Salvmeriafor food and drinks; Hoperafor coffee and sweets; and Dhero Café & Loungebarfor cocktails.
San Polo: When Johann and visited Venice for a day last Spring, this is where we stayed… and boy did we luck out. Halfway between the train station and Rialto Bridge, this is where you can relax with a glass of wine, grab lunch and visit a 13th century Church in relative peace. Specifics: Our favorite snack & wine bar with the most amazing staff: Adagio. Sandwich shop and wine bar: La Botiglia.
Campo Santa Margherita: This is a large piazza featuring plenty of terrace seating and a variety of bars and restuartants. Close proximity to the university keeps the prices light and the people watching A+.
Myth #2: It’s expensive.
The full truth is that Venice is comparable to other big tourist destinations. If you try to book a hotel in the middle of June just a few weeks before your stay, then there’s no doubt you’ll suffer severe sticker shock. But that’s not really Venice’s fault… the same would happen if you tried to find a spot in Dubrovnik or Mykonos. If you’re planning a trip, book early – and definitely search Airbnb before shelling out for a hotel.
As for food and drinks, all of the recommendations I shared above are wildly affordable and good quality. For your comparison, some price points:
Coffee: €1-1.50 for an espresso; €2.50-3 for a cappuccino. Don’t bother trying to order anything iced unless you feel like having an argument.
Snacks: €1-1.50 for a variety of cicchetti, which are small open faced sandwiches with meats, cheeses, fish or vegetables; €2-3 for street foods like aranchini (rice balls) or shrimp kebabs
Wine: €3-5 for a decent glass of red, white or bubbles; you can pay as low as €1 if you want to forgo all the frills, like a front door or stemware
Lunch: Counter pizza €2-2.50/slice; focaccia sandwiches big enough to share €5
Dinner is harder to calculate because it really does depend on where you go and what you order. You can run up a tab of €50/person most places if you share a bottle of wine, appetizers and desserts. On the other hand, you can share a decent pizza and a bottle of house wine for just €20 total. The point is you can find something to fit just about any budget.
Many restaurants charge a “coperto” which is a cover charge and it sometimes includes things like bread and tap water. It can be anywhere from €1-3, which can hike up the bill quite a bit. In addition, there are often different list prices for drinks/coffee/snacks if they’re consumed at a table, the counter or as take away. For example, a seated cappuccino can run you €5 at some places, whereas it would be only €2.50 if you drank it standing at the bar. So watch out for that. And keep in mind that a coperto is not a tip. It goes to the restaurant, not the staff. For table service, tipping is expected – about €1-2 per person for dinner, or to round the bill up, from €75 to 80, for example.
Final word: Once you get to Venice, the best things to do are free: walk around; get lost; take in the views. Talk about priceless.
Myth #3: The food is bad
Nope. I mean, I’m sure that Venice has its fair share of wimpy pizzas and limp noodles, but I haven’t had to suffer through them yet. In the age of the Internet, it’s actually pretty easy to avoid. If you’re a person who has high standards for food, then search in advance and book yourself a table. If you go off good recommendations and reviews, then you probably won’t be disappointed. I stand by all the places I suggest in section one. A few additional options:
Canareggio: Al Timon and Oficina Ormesini
Burano: Alla Maddalena
San Croce: Osteria La Zucca
Costello: Osteria Santa Giustina
Myth #4: The people are rude.
This is the one that I won’t even entertain. The people of Venice are, objectively speaking, some of the kindest, most pleasant, most patient people I have ever met. You’d think that since most of the clientele passes through in 36 hours or less, they wouldn’t make much of an effort, but that’s just not true. I mean, I guess service may be slow, but it is always done with a smile.
I suppose there may be an outlier here or there, but if you think the people of Venice as a whole are rude… well I have news for you. It’s not them, it’s you.
Myth #5: It’s dirty.
Again, this one isn’t really a matter of opinion. A city is either objectively clean, or it’s not. I’ve lived in both Philadelphia and Helsinki so I should know. I’ve seen both ends of the spectrum.
Venice is at the clean end for sure. The streets are swept every day, the garbage is picked up every morning and there are no cars belching smoke and smog all over the place. Considering that 24 million tourists roll through each year with picnic lunches and a desire to feed birds, it should be a dump. But it’s not.
Yes, it’s true that when the water levels dip the algae stinks and there are supposedly rats that spend the better part of winter bulking up on cichetti crumbs, but all in all, it’s surprisingly well kept!
Myth #6: It’s sinking.
Well, actually. That’s kind of true. So honestly, if you haven’t been here already, I suggest you book a trip.
Went to Venice last year despite hearing some of the myths and absolutely loved it. I was 24 weeks pregnant and the city made me feel so protected–all of the locals seemed to be looking out for me! And I was shocked after I returned at how many people made the “dirty” comment. It absolutely isn’t true. Loving seeing your pictures as it reminds me of just how much I enjoyed the trip!
right???? the people are so amazing, I have no doubt they were all looking out for you. I guess it’s a lesson for all of us – don’t believe everything you hear! I’m so glad I got to come here and see it for myself for more than just a day or two. hope you make your way back at some point… I am already making up excuses that will bring me back
I loved Venice when I went there as a very poor student. We did the hostel thing and managed to afford three days there, eating and sleeping well. Granted, we were 19 and knew nothing better really, but it all worked!
Same, actually! I also spent a few days here back when I was 21. It was great then too, though I must say I appreciate it so much more as an adult. Hope you have a chance to visit again soon! xx
I’ll be there in September for my second visit – can’t wait!! Thank you for all the great suggestions, we used the Rick Steves guide book many many many years ago for ideas on my last trip. We met so many great people, one if which is now married to my friend and the father of her three children.
!!! Hope you enjoy your trip… and I am not surprised about your friend. This city makes me want to explore every possible option for permanent relocation! xx
I was in Venice in 2012 for a week and loved it. We stayed in an apartment next to the Hilton – it wasn’t on the main canal but it had fantastic views, comfy beds and decent facilities. And we bought a week’s pass for the ferries and spent a lot of time on the water. It was great.
nice! so glad you enjoyed it. I am on a one-woman marketing campaign since my arrival… nice to know that so many people are way ahead of me.
as an italian… what do you mean with ‘myth that food is bad’ and ‘people are rude’?
How daaare you. Food is ‘nourishing’ and people are ‘extrovert’ all across Italy. Trust me.
Well that’s why it’s a myth – it’s not true. the statements are about Venice as being overly touristy… visitors complain of rude service from locals because locals have little patience for big groups of people who roll through for a few hours. Same thing with the food – sorry but there are a lot of restaurants in Venice that are not very good because they don’t have to be – they cater to one-time tourists. There are also a lot of restaurants that are good – you just have to find them.
Personally, I don’t mind that you disagree but I’m surprised that you never heard these things said before about Venice. Even the guide books will note that the food (mostly) does not compare to the rest of Italy and that visiting in high season is just asking for it. The post was dedicated to breaking down those ideas as false…